How to fit a Western Boot:

To fit a boot, you want to use a foot measure. They come in Men's, Women's, and Kid's sizes. This allows you to find out what size your foot is and your foot’s width. You need to make sure that you stand on the measure with you heel all the way to the back of it because your foot will spread when there is weight on it. You can measure your left foot or your right. Men are most commonly a size 10 with a "D" width.

The foot measure can also measure the length of your arch or instep. Do note that every brand of boot will fit differently. Also everyone has one foot that is smaller than the other. Make sure that you try on both pairs of boots to get the best fit.

Different Parts of Cowboy Boots

If you have had the time or desire to stare at someone’s boots, you would have noticed that there are many parts to one. Each part has a purpose for the person wearing them. I will not bore you with the details of every boot part there is, but I will show what some are and their significance.

The shaft is a long, cylindrical part that goes up the leg. Shafts come in many heights and can be very decorative. They can have colored stitch patterns and embroidery, or tooling by hand or machine. If you can think it, someone can make it and put it on a shaft. This allows the owner to personalize their boots if they want to.

The shaft is also for the protection of the leg. Just like shin guards, chaps, and protective vests, this part of the boot offers the wearer protection against heat, cold, sharp objects, and prevents objects from entering the boot from the top and causing discomfort.

The shank is located between the midsole and outsole, and runs parallel with the foot between the ball of the foot and the heel. This significant part of the boot is commonly called the “arch support”.

Shanks are made from steel, carbon fiber, plastic, fiberglass, and even aluminum. They can be flat, forked, dished, and contoured. Have you ever discovered that some boots feel great on your feet, while others seem to cause pain in the arch of your foot, like you are standing on a shovel with bare feet? Frequently, this is caused by the shank not being the same shape as your foot.

The outsole receives the most amount of abuse, so it is, arguably, the most important part of the boot. Outsoles are made out of two main materials: leather and synthetic materials. Leather is a natural, breathable material that conforms nicely to your foot. It comes in many thicknesses to accommodate different needs. The only reason some steer away from leather soles is that they tend to wear out quickly when they are wet.

Synthetic soles offer greater durability in moisture and other liquids, but they come with one nasty side effect: heat. Leather allows heat to dissipate through the sole, but synthetic soles trap it. Synthetic soles usually offer greater longevity and can offer more slip and chemical resistance, but can you take the heat? For many, the answer is answered for them, due to the nature of where the boots are worn. Also, some prefer the cushion of a synthetic sole over a leather one.

Whatever your preferences may be or how you wear them, boots are worth staring at. Most boots are made by hand, so even in this age of mass production, no two pair are exactly, or fit exactly, alike. This makes each one unique, and an expression of the individual.

How to Fit a Cowboy Hat

Now, that you have found the perfect hat and would like to purchase it you say to yourself, self. How is this danged thing supposed to fit? How do I know my size? Well, here are some tips for you.


Well first of all, you have to know your head size and to find that out you must measure your head. Use a cloth measuring tape measure about an inch to an inch and a half depending on preference above the eye brow; measure around just above the ear and around the back of the head to complete the circle. Pull the tape snug not tight, and record the number and use the chart below to better find your size (these measurements are taken from Stetson size scales).
Next, we must talk about the shape of your head. There are many different types of head shapes and because of this hat makers have made many different ovals to better fit your head. The most common of these said ovals are:


Round oval- which are most of all hats made by Stetson


Long oval- which includes Resistol brand hats


Regular oval which is Atwood hats, Milano, Serritelli, and many others


After you find a hat you like and the right size you are going to want to get it shaped. Most people shape a hat to whatever their style is.But, that is not enough once you pick out what style you then have it shaped to compliment your facial and physical features.

What Types of Cowboy Boots are Available?

I remember the days when you walked into your boot shop and you could find a few pair of boots to choose from. That is not the case anymore. There are many styles to choose from now, each with a purpose, and a look, in mind.

The good, old cowboy boot that most think of has a heel around 1.5 inches. It has a pointed toe and a 13 inch shaft. They usually have some stitching on the toe called a “toe bug”. These basic boots have been worn through the decades.

A cousin of these boots is the dress boot, usually made with an exotic leather such as alligator, ostrich, lizard, or many others. They look just like the good old cowboy boot mentioned above, only with that expensive, exotic hide on it.

The Roper has a one inch heel, round toe, and a shaft of about 11 inches. This boot has been a favorite of those who rope, hence the name.

The Stockman is a hybrid of two styles, the roper and the traditional cowboy boot. It has a 1 to 11/8 inch heel, round toe, and a shaft 11 to 12 inches tall. However, unlike the roper, it has a ¾ welt on the sole. This provides a different fit for those who need it.

The Buckaroo has heels up to 3 inches, round toes, with pull holes, mule ears, or pull straps at the top of the shaft. These boots are usually taller, starting at 13 and going up to 18 inches tall. These are usually worn by those who need good leg protection and a good heel to ride in.

Roughstock boots have heels around 2 inches, can have round or square toes, have tough heel counters for durability, and usually have leather soles. They are around 12 inches tall. These boots are made for riding bulls and broncs, or anyone who likes that look.

Fashion boots are in a class of their own. There are no rules these days for these boots, for they are as varied as the people on this planet. High, narrow heels are usually prominent, being 3-4 inches tall, but there are other styles that use designs and colors to set them apart from their competitors. In the western world, bling has come with hurricane force to stick to anything it can. Boots are no exception to this. Silver dots, brass dots, hair on hides, camo, and bling can be found almost anywhere.

Mules are a cousin to fashion boots with their colors and styles, only they have no shaft or heel. With jeans on, they like boots, so many women like to wear these for their comfort and looks.
In general, a boot is a boot. With a closer look, however, boots can give you a closer look at how someone sees the world, and how they perceive the world sees them. Boots are a standard, especially cowboy boots.

Ride on, for a West is still out there to be won.

Summer Cowboy Hats

As spring narrows to an end and summer is obviously on its way it is time to start to think about getting a summer hat. So that question was asked; what is the best summer cowboy hat? I answered with, it depends.

You see, it is all varies to who is buying the said hat. If you were to ask me the question I would answer back with an Atwood palm leaf hat. Many people consider Atwood to be the “king “of palm leafs. The reason I would choose a palm leaf is because; number one its durability, and strength, number two is price palm leaf hats are normally fairly inexpensive comparatively, and number three its versatility.

But, if you didn’t ask me most people would probably say a toyo, shantung or bangora straw; because that is what the majority of people are wearing. The Shantug family includes the framosa, toyo, bangora, and of course the shantung straws. Most of these hats are woven is Japan or china and are made up of a Japanese paper yarn. Then the bodies are shipped to the U. S. to be made into hats. Unlike the palm leaf the shantung are very light weight but not nearly as weather proof or durable. But because most of them are woven by hand and consequentially more time was spent to make them they are much more expensive.

WESTERN VERSUS ENGLISH SADDLES

By Ron Caldwell – “THE TACKGUY”
A.A. CALLISTER (www.callisters.com)

Although there are many differences between Western and English saddles they do have one common purpose which is to provide support and security to the rider. The roots and basic design of a Western saddle came from cowboys working on western ranches in the United States. The English saddle derives it's design from both hunter and show riders from European countries.

The Western saddle design actually came about from the Spanish vaqueros and horse trainers who handle cattle in Mexico and the American Southwest. The Western saddle was made to be more comfortable for long hours in the saddle and to be used when traveling over very rugged country.

The English saddle is made to allow the rider to have more body contact with his/her horse. The English saddle is usually much lighter in weight and doesn't have the large stirrup fenders which exist on Western saddles. One noticeable difference about an English saddle is that they typically don't have saddle horns. A user of an English saddle learns quickly the importance of being centered and balanced over the saddle and horse. Many riders of English saddles ride horses that jump and go over obstacles which makes the importance of being well balanced in the saddle even more critical. Although the horn on a Western Saddle is used by some western riders as a hand hold, the actual intent of the western saddle horn is for securing the end of a rope to the saddle when working with cattle or other livestock.

Both Western and English saddles will usually have a seat, pommel, cantle, saddle tree, stirrups or irons. In addition, the typical English saddle will have waist skirt, panel, saddle flap, and stirrup leathers. The additional parts of a Western saddle include; horn, gullet, jockey, cinch rings, cinch and latigo keepers, full skirt, saddle strings, and stirrup fenders. Because of the larger number of parts on a Western saddle, it is usually much heavier.

Not all western tack stores carry English saddles but we at A.A. Callister do provide both Western and English saddles.

If you have any questions regarding this article, please contact me a rcaldwell@callisters.com.

WHY USE A BREASTCOLLAR

By Ron Caldwell – “THE TACKGUY”
A.A. CALLISTER (www.callisters.com)

A horse breastcollar (sometimes referred to as a breastplate) is used to keep a saddle or harness from sliding back. Breastcollars are primarily used on western type saddles but can also be found on english saddles too.

Most western saddles will have front attachment rings in which you can attach a breastcollar. It seems that horses with large shoulders or a flat rib cages have need for a breastcollar. Some riders use breastcollars more for appearance and not for securing the saddle in place. Many riders who ride in shows or parades will add a breastcollar (usually made of ornate leather and silver) to dress up their horse's appearance.

A breastcollar can be used as a safety device. When riding in mountainous or hilly terrain, the breastcollar can prevent the saddle from sliding back or off when traveling up a steep incline. Also, if the saddle girth or billets break, then the breastcollar can help keep the saddle in place while you find a place to stop and dismount.

Breastcollars can be used with harnesses. A breastcollar attached to a harness can be used to pull light loads. A breastcollar should not be used on heavy loads as it can put to much weight on the horses sternum or possibility reduce the horse's breathing.

Breastcollars can be found in many different sizes and types of materials. Check your local western or english tack store to see the many styles available.

If you have any questions regarding this article, please contact me a rcaldwell@callisters.com.

The History of Justin Boots

The Justin Boots story began in 1879, when H.J. Justin left Lafayette, Indiana to start a new life in Spanish Fort, Texas. Initially a boot repairman, H.J. soon began his own boot company working out of his home.

When a railroad was built in Nocona, Texas in 1889, H.J. moved his family and business there to capitalize on the bigger market opportunity. Annie Justin, H.J.'s wife, developed a “fit kit” in the early 1890's, which included a tape measure and an instruction chart for the measuring a pair of custom fit boots. Cowboys who carried these fit kits on their journeys became Justin's first Traveling sales force.

In 1908, John and Earl came to work for their father, and the company was renamed H.J. Justin and Sons. In 1910, Justin boots were sold in 26 states, Canada, Mexico, and Cuba for $11 a pair. John, Earl and Avis took over the business after their father's death in 1918. In 1925, the brothers moved the company headquarters to Fort Worth.

In 1948, John Justin, Jr. purchased controlling interest in the company. It wasn't long before H.J. Justin & Sons was growing again. In 1968, the company made a deal with Acme Brick, another Fort Worth company with pioneering roots, to form Justin Industries. Nocona Boot Company became part of Justin Industries when John Jr. purchased the controlling shares from his aunt, Enid Justin, in 1981. Three years later, Chippewa Shoe Company was added to the Justin family of brands. And in 1990, Justin Industries purchased competitor Tony Lama Boots after years of intense rivalry.

In August of 2000, Justin Boots was purchased by Berkshire Hathaway, managed by Warren Buffet. With strong financial backing, a lasting tradition of quality, and a talented management team, Justin Boots today is stronger than ever.

To get more detail of Justin's boot history check their web site: http://justinboots.com/en/heritage.html

Cowboy Hats: The Spirit of The Old West

"The cowboy hat is the symbol of the American cowboy and the symbol of America. It is uniquely American."- David R. Stoecklein.

As you will come to find out from reading the article you will soon discover that it is merely a brief history on one of the worlds most famous and beloved styles of hats, the American cowboy hat. the cowboy hat or western style hat emerged on the scene some 200 years after Spain had brought the *sombrero* to America.

*Sombrero - a traditional Spanish style of head gear worn by the
"vaqueros" it hat a wider brim with usually a pointy-tall crown
with normally three to four dimples. They are usually highly
decorated. rich in color.

At this time Americans moving west wore sailors hat, top hats and derbies. Anything they could
protect themselves from the elements. Until, one day a Philadelphia hat makers son by the name of John B. Stetson created a theatrical styled hat out of necessity. The felt was made by the age old tradition of matting the under coat of animals by kneading the hairs, then boiling them then repeating the process over and over all the while thinning out the felt , when the water dried it became stronger . John later sold the ridiculous hat to a frontiersman for five dollars, a large amount at the time. When he returned to Philly he began immediately filling orders!! And Stetson Hats were born.

Old Western styles - The very first western style hat was called the Boss of The Plains which is still made by stetson today.
Others Include the Gus, Tom Mix, center fire, packer, hop-along,
Russell, open, mule kicks, campaign, cavalry, Montana peak, and
slope, the list goes on and on! Many companies make these styles
like, Stetson, Resistol, and Serratelli.

Now, as time goes on the cowboy hats popularity grows and more and more styles continue to compile. The following is just a brief description on a select few styles:

Classic cattleman - Usually a standard four inch brim with a 4
and 5/8" crown it will have three elongated dimples on the crown
which run parallel. this style is what most people think of when
they think of a cowboy hat.This particular family of hats also
include the rancher styles which have a taller crown, the cutters
that hat a shorter crown and most show styles.

Rough stock - The most popular rodeo style currently are ones
with a square top and wider brim the trend is 4 1/4"- 5"* *brim
depending on you preference. The flange ( style of the brim) is
usually squared up rather wide, on average about 7" apart.And
many have a bound edge which is colored ribbon sewed around the edge.
* *Buckaroo-* The most popular buckaroo style would have to be the
Nevada or the Vaquero style, it traditionally has a 4" brim with a
4" crown completely flat for most but some have a curled side or
pencil role; the crown is a telescopic crown which at a birds eye
view looks like a lens. Others include cross overs from the old
west styles. Some have a laced edge or filigree work .*
*

This is just the beginning of the list!! "May the cowboy hat live on forever.... wear it with pride, for it is the symbol of one of the most respected professions in the world." - David R. Stoecklein.

"Ten gallon" Hat

The ten gallon hat…. How, ever did this term come about? Although there are many theories on how this description of a cowboy hat came about none the less it has been used for decades, approximately since 1925 to be a little more accurate.

One interesting theory is, the tight weave of the fibers in a felt hat most noted ably Stetson hats are matted enough to make for a make shift bucket if need be. In earlier as well as recent advertisements of Stetson hats depict a man using his hat as a bucket for water for his horse; this painting was called “The Last Drop From His Stetson” it was painted by a south western artist by the name of Lon Megargee. Interesting enough this theory does not hold water, an fabric with liquid in it will eventually leak; and Stetson claims that a hat with a large crown can only hold three quarts (that less than one gallon)!

Perhaps it came from an old war story, in 1889 the USS Maine battleship sunk in the Havana bay. Some fourteen years later when they raised the ship back up in 1912 though the mud and water they found a Stetson hat, it was then carefully dried and renovated. Today the hat looks almost as good as new, so new publicity for Stetson arose thus feeding the fire to this urban myth.

Finally the last theory and most probable would have to be, that the term "ten gallon" is possibly a corruption of the Spanish term "galón", or galloon, a type of narrow braided trimming around the crown, possibly a style adapted by the vaqueros. "The term ten-gallon did not originally refer to the holding capacity of the hat, but to the width of a Mexican sombrero hatband, and is more closely related to this unit of measurement by the Spanish than to the water-holding capacity of a Stetson." The term came into use about 1925. Thus, the term "ten-gallon" did not originally refer to the holding capacity of the hat, but to the width of a Spanish hatband. When Texas cowboys misunderstood the word "galón" for "gallon", the popular, though incorrect, legend may have been born.

Citations
• www.wikipedia.com

Cowboy Hat Etiquette

Cowboy hat etiquette?! Yes it is true, even though most of us western folk are a messy bunch; we still have rules. And today we are talking about the etiquette of western styled hats.
First of all you need to learn how to take off the hat in the first place. The most common practice would have to be grabbing the crown and pulling it off which is fine; not good, but fine (I know that I am guilty). Over time the felt where you have been handling it will become dirty and weak. But, the proper way to take off your hat would have to be by gently grabbing the hat at the base of the crown with two hands; one in the front and one in the back, and simply remove. Next, you place the hat crown down. So you do not lose the shape of the brim.
Classic examples of what NOT to do:
• Do not roughly handle the brim.
• Do not leave your hat in the car.
• Do not leave your hat in direct sunlight.
• It is considered bad luck to place your cowboy hat brim on the bed.
The proper things to do:
• When looking for a place to set your hat, the first and best place would have to be… on your head!
• You should always remove cover for our nation’s flag/ national anthem; when entering an enclosed area such as a home, this does not include barns or bars; just where people reside. Except for, a church or court house.
• As a gentleman it is always a good idea to remove ones hat the first time you meet a lady, and a gentleman tips the hat towards her.
Well there you go, that’s the scoop on the do’s and don’ts in cowboy hat etiquette.

HOW TO BRIDLE A HORSE

Bridling a horse is usually the last step of tacking up a horse. The horse should already be saddled and secured to a hitch posting, cross-tie, or perhaps a trailer with a halter and lead rope.

Next, I will remove the halter from the horses head and tie or fasten it around the horse neck (but not too tight). This helps to prevent the horse from wandering off while you’re putting the bridle on.

Most people like to stand on the horse’s left side to bridle a horse.

Check your bridle to make sure the throat latch is unbuckled and that the bit is properly position for inserting into the horse’s mouth. I also like to make sure the bit is clean and smooth with no traces of grass or hay on the mouth piece.

With the crown piece of the bridle (also called headstall) in your right hand, place your right arm or wrist between the horse’s ears. This will help encourage the horse to drop its head. It will also put your right hand in a good spot to lift and guide the bridle.

Then, use your left hand to place the bit at the horse’s mouth or lips. If your using a curb strap or chain, then move it behind the horses chin so it won’t slip into his mouth.

When inserting the bit into the horse’s mouth it’s very important not to bump or bang the bit against the horses teeth or lips. This can be painful to the horse and cause you and the horse frustration. You may need to encourage your horse to open his mouth by using your left thumb and while holding the front of the bit with your fingers, insert you thumb into the corner of his mouth. In most cases, this will cause the horse to open his mouth.

Now that the bit is in his mouth, the slip the top part of the bridle over the horse’s ears. I usually fold the right ear under and then the left ear. If necessary, adjust the length of the face strap so there are one or two wrinkles in the skin at the corner of the horse’s mouth.

Adjust and buckle the throat latch under the horse’s neck. I like to see about two fingers width between the leather strap and throat.

Bridling a horse correctly and comfortably is very important. I would also check to make sure the brow band of the bridle is not pinching the horse ears and that the bit is fitting comfortably in the horse’s mouth.

If you have any questions regarding this article, please contact me (The Tackguy) @ rcaldwell@callisters.com.

Cowboy Hats: Which One is For Me?

When choosing a cowboy hat one must ask themselves, "What am I going to use it for?"
Once you have established the answer then it is time to decide what style. Am I going to use it for summer or winter?

Summer Cowboy Hat:

If you are looking for a great summer hat then you are probably looking for sun protection. The types of summer hat materials I would reckoned are:

• Palm Leaf- recognized for there great durability, flexibility, and versatility.the come in several different types Mexican, Guatemalan, finished, and bleach finished.
• Rafia/ Sea Grass- most popular among the urban crowds, most known as the "Beach Cowboy". They are very light weight and most are flexible and have a "shape-yourself" feature.
• Straw- most "straw" hats are no longer made of straw any more most of them are made of a Japanese paper yarn called Shantung, these hats are usually a finely woven white or off white material the weave is very exact. But, there are different varieties such as bangora which is a less expensive way to weave shantung or the most famous is Panama straw(fun fact: most "Panama" straws are made in Ecuador!), There is also still classic straw hats,but, all of these *western hats* are known for there breath ability security and classic style.

Winter Cowboy Hat:

When winter roles around you are going to of course want some thing that is going to keep your noodle warm. I would suggest only the best! Examples of great brands are: Stetson, Resistol, Serratelli, Milano, or Greeley.

Types of Felt Cowboy Hats:

There are two major categories in felt hats, they include wool and fur felt.

Wool Cowboy Hats:

Wool felt is made from most obviously wool but, it also includes bison felt as well. The characteristics of the wool hats are typically rough to the touch with a dull finish. they are very cheap but very warm they are also not very weather resistant. A good wool hat will last you typically one to two seasons at best.

Fur Felt Cowboy Hats:

Fur felt hats come in all variations of pure and mixed furs from an even larger variety of animals. the best and most popular fur to make a hat out of is beaver a pure beaver hat is going to make the most weather resistant and durable hat available. They also makes them out of rabbit, mohair, cashmere, angora, hare, nutria, and the list goes on and on.

Some are better that others but all of them with have the appearance of a slight silky cast, rich in color, and light weight, thin, but dense with a smooth feel. If you take good care of a fur felt hat it will last for many a year.

Cowboy Boot Work:

>You have the pull on work boot that make it easy to take on and off by using the looped straps on the sides of the boot.

Then you have the lace style that are great for people you have high insteps or need more support. With the laces you are able to secure the boot to a comfortable fit.

Both styles of boots come with rubber soles to prevent slipping out in the work field.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR WESTERN SADDLE

Usually, the purchase of a Western Saddle is a significant investment. Most saddle owners take pride in the saddles they own and treat them with respect. In some cases, saddles become family heirlooms and are handed down from generation to generation. A little bit of effort to care for a saddle can help make it more comfortable and extend its life.

The following are some tips for caring for your saddle:

• Do not store saddles in plastic bags or other air tight containers.
• Keep it clean.
• Wet or damp saddles should be air dried naturally away from sources of heat.
• Oil or condition your saddle with light oil. Do not use waxes, silicone, or other preparations that prevent the leather from breathing. Regularly recondition your saddle to prevent it from drying out and cracking.
• Protect your saddle from mildew or excessive humidity.
• Never use household chemicals to clean leather. Avoid chemicals that contain alcohol, turpentine, or mineral spirits. Also, using mink or animals fats will darken leather and can turn rancid, causing the stitching and leather to rot.
• Check your saddle for cracks, breaks, or excessive wear. Check the lining for excessive wear or protrusions.
• Properly hang your saddle on a saddle rack or rail so that it will maintain its shape.
• Cover the saddle with a blanket, soft cloth or a saddle cover to keep it clean.

By using these tips, your saddle will help to retain its original value, be more comfortable and safe to ride and show the pride you to take in your horses and tack.