Rodeo Rope Lassos

When you hear cowboy, you might think of several things. Those things
probably range from cow, horse, and wagons to cattle herds, campfires, and lassos. Cowboys are not the only ones that have used lassos though.

The Egyptians used lassos as well. There is a hieroglyphic in the temple of Pharaoh Seti depicting the Pharaoh throwing a lasso around a bull. This hieroglyphic is dated about 1280 BC.

The word lasso is both an object and a verb. The object of lasso is a stiff rope. The verb is to throw this rope around an object.

The rope of a lasso is properly called a lariat, but cowboys still call it a rope. The lariat is stiff so that the noose or hole stays open in mid-air to catch its “prey.” Because it is stiff, it is also easy to release the cattle on horseback. All you need to do is push it a little and the noose widens. High quality lassos are generally weighted.

The sizes of lassos vary depending on the location where they are used. Modern lariats have a diameter of 5/16” or 3/8”. Arena-style lariats come in lengths of 28’, 30’, or 35’. California lariats range from 45’ to 70’. Lariats are generally made of stiff nylon or polyester rope.

Lassos are great for cowboys because it allows them to move the animal where they want it to go. They lasso the animal and wrap the other end of the rope on their saddle horn. Then the cowboys can use the horse like a tow truck and bring the animal where they want it.

Lassos are also used in competitive events. They can be used as rodeo ropes. These rodeo ropes are used in events that are either rough stock or timed events. Rodeo ropes are used on horses and other livestock.

You can also do tricks with lassos. Trick roping is where you do various spinning tricks with your lasso. One well-known trick roper is Will Rogers.

WESTERN VERSUS ENGLISH SADDLES

By Ron Caldwell – “THE TACKGUY”
A.A. CALLISTER (www.callisters.com)

Although there are many differences between Western and English saddles they do have one common purpose which is to provide support and security to the rider. The roots and basic design of a Western saddle came from cowboys working on western ranches in the United States. The English saddle derives it's design from both hunter and show riders from European countries.

The Western saddle design actually came about from the Spanish vaqueros and horse trainers who handle cattle in Mexico and the American Southwest. The Western saddle was made to be more comfortable for long hours in the saddle and to be used when traveling over very rugged country.

The English saddle is made to allow the rider to have more body contact with his/her horse. The English saddle is usually much lighter in weight and doesn't have the large stirrup fenders which exist on Western saddles. One noticeable difference about an English saddle is that they typically don't have saddle horns. A user of an English saddle learns quickly the importance of being centered and balanced over the saddle and horse. Many riders of English saddles ride horses that jump and go over obstacles which makes the importance of being well balanced in the saddle even more critical. Although the horn on a Western Saddle is used by some western riders as a hand hold, the actual intent of the western saddle horn is for securing the end of a rope to the saddle when working with cattle or other livestock.

Both Western and English saddles will usually have a seat, pommel, cantle, saddle tree, stirrups or irons. In addition, the typical English saddle will have waist skirt, panel, saddle flap, and stirrup leathers. The additional parts of a Western saddle include; horn, gullet, jockey, cinch rings, cinch and latigo keepers, full skirt, saddle strings, and stirrup fenders. Because of the larger number of parts on a Western saddle, it is usually much heavier.

Not all western tack stores carry English saddles but we at A.A. Callister do provide both Western and English saddles.

If you have any questions regarding this article, please contact me a rcaldwell@callisters.com.

WHY USE A BREASTCOLLAR

By Ron Caldwell – “THE TACKGUY”
A.A. CALLISTER (www.callisters.com)

A horse breastcollar (sometimes referred to as a breastplate) is used to keep a saddle or harness from sliding back. Breastcollars are primarily used on western type saddles but can also be found on english saddles too.

Most western saddles will have front attachment rings in which you can attach a breastcollar. It seems that horses with large shoulders or a flat rib cages have need for a breastcollar. Some riders use breastcollars more for appearance and not for securing the saddle in place. Many riders who ride in shows or parades will add a breastcollar (usually made of ornate leather and silver) to dress up their horse's appearance.

A breastcollar can be used as a safety device. When riding in mountainous or hilly terrain, the breastcollar can prevent the saddle from sliding back or off when traveling up a steep incline. Also, if the saddle girth or billets break, then the breastcollar can help keep the saddle in place while you find a place to stop and dismount.

Breastcollars can be used with harnesses. A breastcollar attached to a harness can be used to pull light loads. A breastcollar should not be used on heavy loads as it can put to much weight on the horses sternum or possibility reduce the horse's breathing.

Breastcollars can be found in many different sizes and types of materials. Check your local western or english tack store to see the many styles available.

If you have any questions regarding this article, please contact me a rcaldwell@callisters.com.

HOW TO BRIDLE A HORSE

Bridling a horse is usually the last step of tacking up a horse. The horse should already be saddled and secured to a hitch posting, cross-tie, or perhaps a trailer with a halter and lead rope.

Next, I will remove the halter from the horses head and tie or fasten it around the horse neck (but not too tight). This helps to prevent the horse from wandering off while you’re putting the bridle on.

Most people like to stand on the horse’s left side to bridle a horse.

Check your bridle to make sure the throat latch is unbuckled and that the bit is properly position for inserting into the horse’s mouth. I also like to make sure the bit is clean and smooth with no traces of grass or hay on the mouth piece.

With the crown piece of the bridle (also called headstall) in your right hand, place your right arm or wrist between the horse’s ears. This will help encourage the horse to drop its head. It will also put your right hand in a good spot to lift and guide the bridle.

Then, use your left hand to place the bit at the horse’s mouth or lips. If your using a curb strap or chain, then move it behind the horses chin so it won’t slip into his mouth.

When inserting the bit into the horse’s mouth it’s very important not to bump or bang the bit against the horses teeth or lips. This can be painful to the horse and cause you and the horse frustration. You may need to encourage your horse to open his mouth by using your left thumb and while holding the front of the bit with your fingers, insert you thumb into the corner of his mouth. In most cases, this will cause the horse to open his mouth.

Now that the bit is in his mouth, the slip the top part of the bridle over the horse’s ears. I usually fold the right ear under and then the left ear. If necessary, adjust the length of the face strap so there are one or two wrinkles in the skin at the corner of the horse’s mouth.

Adjust and buckle the throat latch under the horse’s neck. I like to see about two fingers width between the leather strap and throat.

Bridling a horse correctly and comfortably is very important. I would also check to make sure the brow band of the bridle is not pinching the horse ears and that the bit is fitting comfortably in the horse’s mouth.

If you have any questions regarding this article, please contact me (The Tackguy) @ rcaldwell@callisters.com.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR WESTERN SADDLE

Usually, the purchase of a Western Saddle is a significant investment. Most saddle owners take pride in the saddles they own and treat them with respect. In some cases, saddles become family heirlooms and are handed down from generation to generation. A little bit of effort to care for a saddle can help make it more comfortable and extend its life.

The following are some tips for caring for your saddle:

• Do not store saddles in plastic bags or other air tight containers.
• Keep it clean.
• Wet or damp saddles should be air dried naturally away from sources of heat.
• Oil or condition your saddle with light oil. Do not use waxes, silicone, or other preparations that prevent the leather from breathing. Regularly recondition your saddle to prevent it from drying out and cracking.
• Protect your saddle from mildew or excessive humidity.
• Never use household chemicals to clean leather. Avoid chemicals that contain alcohol, turpentine, or mineral spirits. Also, using mink or animals fats will darken leather and can turn rancid, causing the stitching and leather to rot.
• Check your saddle for cracks, breaks, or excessive wear. Check the lining for excessive wear or protrusions.
• Properly hang your saddle on a saddle rack or rail so that it will maintain its shape.
• Cover the saddle with a blanket, soft cloth or a saddle cover to keep it clean.

By using these tips, your saddle will help to retain its original value, be more comfortable and safe to ride and show the pride you to take in your horses and tack.

CHOOSING A HORSE BLANKET

Horse blankets are part of most owners’ basic horse equipment. With several choices on the market these days, you want to make an informed decision on your horse blanket purchase. Below are some basic blanket descriptions to help you navigate your way through all the options available at your local tack store or internet site.

• BREATHABLE – Allows the blanket to wick moisture away from the horse’s body.
• CLOSED FRONT - Blankets that do not open at the chest. These blankets will need to be slid on OVER the horse’s head (like a turtleneck sweater). Some horses are uncomfortable with this procedure at first.
• DENIER (D) - Outer layer of the blanket. A blanket with higher denier will be STRONGER and WARMER. If your horse will be with other horses, consider a higher denier to withstand bites, rips and tears.
• FILL - The amount of insulation in the blanket. Sometimes insulation is listed in grams and sometimes in ounces. A blanket with higher fill amounts will be warmer. Equine seniors and newborns may need more fill to keep warm.
• HEAVY WEIGHT - Blankets designed for very cold climates where the temperature goes below 20 degrees. They are 1200D or more and have more than 8OZ or 200G of fill.
• HOOD/ NECK COVER - These are usually separate pieces that will attach to rings/fasteners on your blanket.
• LIGHT WEIGHT - Blankets designed for spring/fall or mild winter climates where the temperature doesn’t get below 40 degrees. They usually are 600D or less and have little or no fill.
• LINER - This is the layer next to the horse’s body. Some liner options available are fleece, felt and nylon. Most blankets have a liner built in, but you can also buy them separately.
• MEDIUM WEIGHT - Blankets designed for cold climates where the temperature doesn’t get below 20 degrees. They are usually 600D-1200D and have 8OZ or 200G of fill or less.
• OPEN FRONT - Blankets that open at the chest and have buckles or fasteners to close.
• SIZE - Proper sizing is very important. A blanket that is too big won’t stay in place. A blanket that is too small will rub. To get the correct size, hold a measuring tape at the center of the horse’s chest and move backwards to the center of the horse’s tail (making sure you go around the fullest part of the horse’s shoulders, barrel and hips). This will give you the size. Example 76”. Some blankets will only come in even sizes; so if your horse measures a 75” you may have to go up to a 76”.
  

How to Measure Your Horse for a Horse Blanket -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

• STABLE - These blankets are not waterproof or water resistant. They are intended for indoor use. They usually have a “quilted” look to them. You can use them outdoors in good weather, but if they get wet they can hold the moisture in like a sponge.
• TURNOUT - These blankets are either water resistant or waterproof. They can be used indoor or outdoor. They usually do not have a back seem (stitching running down back/top line of the blanket/horse). They are usually breathable. They usually have gussets at the shoulders to allow for freedom of movement.
• WATER RESISTANT & WATERPROOF – Water resistant may allow moisture to seep through. Waterproof should not allow moisture to seep through. Moisture can run down your horse’s neck and into the blanket. A neck cover will help stop this from happening.

Learn More:

The Parts of a Horse Blanket -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

Keep these items in mind when purchasing your next horse blanket. If you have any further questions, we are only an email or phone call away and would love to help. 1-877-78HORSE or email me at sroberts@callisters.com.

SIX EASY STEPS TO SADDLE A HORSE

Saddling a horse can be an easy process once learned. Doing it right helps ensures more comfort for the horse and rider and most importantly, safety while riding. Acquiring good quality horse tack from your local tack shop will greatly help in this process. Here are six easy steps to follow in saddling your horse.

1. Prepare your horse for receiving the saddle.

Begin by tying your horse securely to a hitching post, stall ring or trailer. The use of a quick release knot or a metal tie ring can help in the event your horse is spooked or feels the need to pull back. Then use good quality horse supplies like grooming brushes, curry combs and hoof picks to clean and remove any dirt, mud, or wood shavings from the horses coat and feet. Pay special attention to cleaning your horse’s back and belly. This will ensure that the saddle and cinches will not cause any irritations when placed on the horse.

2. Inspect your saddle and saddle pad.

Make sure your saddle and saddle pad are clean and in good working order. Remove any dirt or debris from padding (or fleece) beneath the saddle. Also cleaning your saddle pad or blanket will provide greater comfort to your horse and help to prevent sores or bruising by the saddle. Inspect your saddle for any missing parts (like Conchos, stirrup hobble straps, metal D-rings, screws, etc.)

3. Place your saddle pad on the horse.

Place your saddle pad or blanket onto the horse’s back. I like to place it a bit forward and upon the horse’s withers to start and then side it back a little to where is appears to be centered. Make sure the horse’s mane or wither hairs are not tangled or being pulled on beneath the pad.

4. Place your saddle on the saddle pad and horse.

Position on yourself with the saddle being held by both hands on either side of your horse. I like to saddle my horses from either side of them. I feel always saddling from the same side may cause the horse to become one-sided. I think it’s also good to step up on your horse from either side. I like my horses to feel comfortable when I am on either side of them. I then rest the saddle on my hip and then use a swinging and lifting motion, I raise the saddle up to the horse’s back. Center the saddle on the saddle pad. Make sure that your saddle pad extends at least one inch from the front and back of your saddle. Then lift the front of your saddle pad up and away from the horse’s withers. Once again, check to make sure that the horse’s mane or wither hairs are not tangle or being pulled on by the pad or saddle. I like to stand off to the side of the horse and visually see if the saddle is lying level on his back. Another way to check for proper saddle placement is to make sure you have one hand’s width of distance between the horse’s elbow and the front cinch. Placing the front cinch too close or next to his elbow can cause pinching or too much pressure from the saddle onto his shoulders.

5. Secure your saddle onto the horse.

When I’m not using my saddles, I like to tie my cinches, latigo, and breast collar on top of my saddles. I usually leave them tied up on top of my saddle even when I go to lift and place my saddle on the horse. After saddle placement, then I untie these items and let them hang down from the saddle. I always start by securing the front cinch. Exercise caution when reaching underneath your horse to grab any cinches (front or back) from the off or left side of the horse. I recommend standing next to his left front leg facing backwards and then using your left arm to reach under the horse. This allows you to look at his hind leg in case he decides to kick or jump. I thread the latigo (leather front strap on the saddle) through the front cinch buckle several times. Pull and tighten the latigo/cinch until the saddle doesn’t slide from side to side. Use either a “T” cross knot or use the tongue of the front cinch buckle to lock the cinch. If you are using a back cinch, make sure the front and back cinches are connected with a connecting strap. I like to leave about an inch of spacing between the back cinch and the horses belly when I’ve buckled and locked the back cinch into place. Having the back cinch too loose may allow a horse to get his hind foot tangled in it and having it too tight may cause him to be uncomfortable.

6. Relax your horse and perform final inspection.

I find relaxing my horse by walking him around for a few minutes helps to ensure a well fit and properly cinched saddle. I will usually rock the saddle from side to side while still standing on the ground to make sure it’s secure and that it’s going to stay in place when I get up into the saddle. I find that I usually have to tighten the front cinch a bit more before stepping up into the saddle. The end of your latigo should now be inserted into its keeper. All buckles should be locked and secured.

Having a properly fitting saddle will help ensure a safe and enjoyable riding experience. If you have further questions regarding this article, please feel free to contact me by email at rcaldwell@callisters.com. Also visit your local western tack shop for advice and help.

BY RON CALDWELL (TACKGUY)

A.A. CALLISTER CORPORATION (www.callisters.com)